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What if my headlights are leaking? What if I see fog in them? What if there is a lot of water in them?

With ANY custom headlight build there is the potential risk of them having a moisture issue. This isn’t a common occurrence, but can happen as with anything custom built – there is a chance of an issue arising.

If this should happen – first determine what the severity of the moisture is. A very light fogging, “waterfalls” or a puddle of water?

For fogging or VERY light fogging, we recommend one of two methods to fix this. The first (if you live in a relatively dry climate) is to pop a back cap off of the housing and park the vehicle with the headlight in direct sunlight for a few hours. This often drys the light out and solves the issue. The next method which is slightly quicker is to remove a back cap and aim a hairdryer on LOW at the opening for approximately 30 minutes(or until the light is completely dried out). These are both highly effective.

If you are experiencing a “waterfall” effect or a puddle of water in the light you may have a seal or cap issue. To remedy this on your own (should you choose to do so), we recommend taking the light off the vehicle. Drain as much water as possible and then remove a any & all back caps from the housing. Aim a hairdryer on low at a backside opening and allow the light to dry for approximately 30 minutes. Then, heat in your oven on LOW (170 degrees or lower if possible) for approximately 20 minutes. The BACK of the headlight housing should sit on the oven shelf – NOT the front lens portion. Once removed from the oven, squeeze the edges of the light housing at the seam. Allow to cool, re-install on the vehicle and watch for moisture over the next 7 days.

If you’re not comfortable with any of these procedures please contact us below and we’ll make arrangements with you for the repair of your lights. There may be associated costs with this.

If your headlights have the symptoms of “loose internal guts” (as described in a few of the other troubleshooting topics on this page), the procedures here may help to diagnose and/or solve this.

The projectors in your HID system sit inside the headlights in what we refer to as “guts”. These guts are held in place by three pivot points.

Sometimes during shipping a package can be handled roughly – it is unfortunately but it does happen. This can cause the guts to pop off one or more of their pivot points – sometimes with additional damage, but most often it’s simply just a pop-off issue.

To rectify this you can gently grab the back of the projector and give it a gently “wiggle”. If it seems to move freely or more than 1-2mm there may be a mounting point internally that has popped off. Simply grab the projector and pull backwards, toward the back of the headlight housing to “pop” it back in place. You’ll hear or feel a small click. Do NOT make sudden or jerking motions – a slow even pressure often pops it back in.

This can explain a wobbly headlight output, poor adjustment capability, rotation issue with the output, or having a light that’s aimed too low or high.

Most HID ballasts make some sort of noise or “buzzing” while operating – it’s simply the sound of electricity being converted and applied to your new HID bulbs.

Some HID ballasts will have noticeable noise during startup (the first 30-60 seconds) and will quiet down a bit. Some will remain noisy for the entire duration of your headlights being on.

This is perfectly normal, not harmful in any way and is not heard during normal driving conditions.

If you have any LOUD arcing sound, this may indicate a problem. This is extremely rare though.

If you’re high beams don’t work there may be underlying reasons.

First – which type of system do you have? Did the vehicle have ONE bulb for both low and high beam operation OR is it a split system, meaning there was ONE bulb for low beam and ONE bulb for high beam?

With a SINGLE bulb for high and low beam, a new wiring harness was included with your build. This controls the output and keeps the HID bulb on while activating the high beam solenoid within the projectors. If your high beams do NOT work within this system, check all connections, grounds and fuses. If you are still only getting low beam operation, disconnect the high beam pigtails on ONE side and test the pins with DIRECT battery power (this can be done with alligator clips to the battery OR a 9 volt battery).

If the high beam solenoid clicks and makes it’s noise – you likely have a connection problem to the main harness (a pin may have pushed out or is bent).

If your system is the split system with ONE bulb for low and ONE bulb for high beams – check to see that the new HID projector high beam pigtail is connected or tied into the stock halogen high beam bulb with a splitter.